Gougane Barra

The hermitage

Gougane Barra sits on a hillside above a small lake in the Smerkistown area, right on the border of County Cork and County Kerry. The site belongs to St Finbarr — St Finbarr of Cork, the city's patron saint. By tradition, he set up a hermitage here in the sixth century.

The stone oratory you see today stands on a small island in the lake, beside the cave old stories attribute to the saint. It dates from around 1700. That is when the priest Denis O’Mahony retreated to the island and built the structure that remains there now.

The setting does a lot of the work. There is the lake below, the mountains around, and a path that climbs steadily out of the forest and over the hillside. The place feels considerably older than it actually is.

The walk

From the car park to the oratory, the walk is a steady hill climb. Expect about an hour up and down in total. The route covers grass and rock, with the best view at the top looking back across the lake and the far mountains.

It is not a difficult walk, but it is a real one. Wear proper footwear and go in any weather that will let you. Take the time at the top. That is the point of the trip.

Pilgrimage

For centuries, people walked to Gougane Barra on pilgrimage. The old pattern, the periodic pilgrimage walk, has been revived in recent decades. On pattern days the hillsides are full of walkers heading for the oratory and the well. Even on an ordinary day, you will meet people making the walk for the same reason their ancestors did.

When to go

Any day of the year works. Summer light is the best, but the place is at its most atmospheric in a low winter light. The lake is flat and the mountains are close. The oratory is open, the site is managed, and the path is waymarked.

Practical

It is free to visit. The car park is at the foot of the hill. Allow an hour up and down in good conditions, and more if the weather is against you. For most people it is a day trip. The nearest real bases are Castletownbere and Kenmare, an hour away either side.