Clare Island

The island

Known locally as Cliara or Oileán Chliara, Clare Island is a mountainous landmass guarding the entrance to Clew Bay in County Mayo. You might see it listed historically as Inishcleer. The 2022 census puts the population at 138 people. It was once part of the kingdom of Umhaill. Today, it is best known as the home of the 16th-century pirate queen, Gráinne O’Malley. Inishturk and Caher Island lie to the south-west. Achill Island sits to the north.

The O’Malley country

The O’Malley family held these lands through the Middle Ages. Their tower-house ruins stand close to the pier at the eastern edge. Locals call it Granuaile’s Castle, named after its most famous resident. Further in, near the south coast, is Clare Island Abbey. The O’Malleys founded it. Inside, you’ll find the O’Malley Tomb, a possible burial site for Gráinne. The Abbey holds rare medieval roof paintings. The walk across the island connects the pier, the castle, and the tomb.

The bay country

The island marks the threshold to Clew Bay. The water here is the bay in its proper form: islands, headlands, and the Atlantic behind them. In 1588, a ship from the Spanish Armada passed this way. The history of the place is tied to the bay: the O’Malleys, the castle, and the water. It is a quiet spot at the mouth of the bay. The light on the water is best before the weather moves in.

Practical

You reach the island by boat from Westport. A short drive gets you to the pier. The island is small enough for a day. Start with the walk from the pier to Granuaile’s Castle, then continue to the Abbey.