The island
Known locally as Sceilg Mhíchíl, or "the rock of Michael," this small, steep island sits a short boat ride off the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry. It holds UNESCO World Heritage Site status and ranks among the great places in the country. A community of monks lived here in the sixth and seventh centuries, occupying a rock that rises almost vertically out of the Atlantic.
Standing on the island is rarely pleasant, regardless of the weather. The ground is rough, the wind is constant, and the path to the upper station is a climb of more than six hundred steps. That station holds the beehive huts and the oratory. Despite the effort, the view looking back across the Iveragh and out to the open Atlantic is one of the best in the country.
The monastery
The monastery dates from the early medieval period. Its beehive huts, or clocháin, are some of the best-preserved examples in the country. The monks here were part of a wider network of early Christian communities. The island's isolation created a place of real spiritual seriousness. The oratory is the largest of the structures and the most substantial building on the island. It is a good place to sit and think about the scale of what the monks did here.
The island is also a bird place. The cliffs are covered in seabirds, and the colonies are among the largest in the country. Seals are in the water, and the view from the upper station, on a clear day, is a long one.
When to go
The light is best in late summer, when the birds are nesting and the days are long. The island is at its most dramatic in a winter gale. The view from the boat, on a clear day, is a good one in its own right.
Practical
Visits are by boat only, from the mainland (Portmagee / Cahercive). The boat runs in suitable weather, and the schedule depends on the sea state; check the current service before you plan a trip. There are a limited number of visitors allowed on the island at any one time, and the booking is essential in high season. There are no facilities on the island, and the ground is rough. Allow a few hours for the visit.
Where to stay
Be close when the boat is ready
Sailings are early and weather-dependent. Staying near the departure harbour makes the morning considerably easier.
- PortmageeThe main departure harbour for Skellig sailings; a handful of B&Bs and cafés. · at the harbour
- DingleThe classic Iveragh base with a much wider choice of stays. · 30 min by car
- KenmareA bigger town, useful for supplies and quieter stays. · 1h by car
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